Thursday, December 08, 2005

IF IT IS DECEMBER IN ATHENS IT MUST BE 70 AND SUNNY!



We have just returned from our last adventure out of Bulgaria. This time we spent 5 days in Greece. We really had the weather gods on our side as it was warm and sunny the entire trip.


Our first day was spent getting the lay of the city: which way is north and how do you use the subway. Since the museums close at 3pm in the winter we decided to just walk until we found a place to eat alfresco. On our walk we passed the parliament building just in time to see the changing of the guard. Interesting looking outfits and what about those shoes?



Our first full day was spent at the acropolis ("edge city") with the Parthenon. The main buildings at the acropolis were built by Perikles between 449-431 BC. They stood without much damage until the 17th century. Of course their functions changed with the spread of Christinaity (buildings used as churches) and then when the area was under Ottoman rule (buildings used as mosques). But in the 17th century the Parthenon was used as a munitions storage unit and the invading Venetians blew it up. Just as damaging was the "acquisition" of much of the buidings by Lord Elgin. Many statues and other parts of the Pathenon are are on display in the British Museum.
So, since we were just there I will post both a picture of the Parthenon and the bits in England. You have to enlarge this to see the parts of the side friezes and in the back the statues that used to be on the upper arch. As with other "historical treasures" there is controversy over where these bits should reside. Some say they belong to Greece while others say they are a "wonder of the world" and are safer in the museum. The biggest challenge facing the acropolis currently is not looting, but acid rain. Serious reconstruction efforts are going on (there was scaffolding and cranes all over the hill) and the Parthenon should look quite different in a couple of years.

Lots of other interesting sites around the acropolis, including the remains of ancient Agora, the theatre of Dionysos, and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. We saw it all and have pictures, but they'll just have to sit patiently on my mac for a slide show. One interesting bit of history we found in the museum of ancient Agora (a political gathering center) were some of the first official ballots. On pieces of clay you could see names. Some names were for candidtates that men wanted elected to office while others had names of men that they wanted ostracized. Interesting idea. Wait.....no its not.....



Our second full day was spent on a road trip to Mycenae on the Peloponnese (the southernmost extremity of the Balkan peninsula). The Peloponnese is connected to mainland Greece by the Ismuth of Corinth. There a canal was built in 1893. To the east is the Agena Sea (shown here) while to the west is the Ionian Sea. The two main draws for this day trip were to the theatre of Epidarus and to Mycenae. First stop, the theatre. This was part of the santuary of Asclepios-the god of healing. The theatre is thought to be the best known and preserved of all ancient theatres. It was built in the 3rd century BC and originally held 6,200 people. Later it was expanded to hold more that 12,000. (yes, I have a picture of me doing the O chant, but this time it is for the UofO to "go big" in the Holiday Bowl).



Next it was off to Mycenae (my cee' nee). There is a great, but very long, story behind this site, so let me give you just a couple of the highlights. The mythological founder of Mycenae was Perseus, son of Zeus and Dane.

Over the years many "smaller" gods, and then men, were chosen to rule over Mycenae. Two famous names are those of Atreus and his son Agamemnon. Many of you may recall Agamemnon from his success in the Trojan wars. After the wars Agamemnon returned to Mycenae with Cassandra (a person always bearing bad news). Agamemnon's wife wasn't too pleased and she killed Agamemnon and Cassandra.



But what goes around, comes around, and her son (with Agamemnon) Orestes killed her. Homer told these stories and included a reference to much gold. For many years these stories were told as myths. However, in the late 19th century a German archeologist ("with his Greek wife" as they say here) named Schliemann came to Mycenae and uncovered a city and a pot of gold. He also found several "beehive" tombs with one thought to be either that of Atreus or of Agamemnon. So the site has two names: Agememnon's Grave and the Treasures of Atreus. One other interesting feature of Mycenae (by the way this site dates back to the 17th century BC) are the walls.



They are called Cyclopean Walls because the stones are so large than only the Cyclops could have picked them up and brought them here. If you enlarge the picture of the tomb you can see a couple of the long rectangular stones that have been here (according to archeologists) for over 3500 years. Can there be any other explanation? The pictures shown here are of Brent at the Lion's Gate (entrance to Mycenae), Agamemnon's tomb, and finally the ruins showing where the kilos of gold were discovered by Schliemann.

So, I must leave you for today. It was pretty funny this morning as Brent and I were lifting weights over at the dorms the song "It's the final countdown" by Europe came on (I'd hum a few bars if I could). We are definately counting down the days. One more lecture, one more exam.....only 10 more days. I will try another Greece entry in the days to come. To give you a hint at what's to come, I'll leave you with a photo of me at Delphi. I had just seen the oracle and she said "long not short."